Can I Use Naseptin On My Cheek

Purple Pink and Black black and silver Silver and Café

Hi Girls

Today I bring this design: D I hope you like

Products Used

Enamel Base Bissu

Bissu Enamel No. 005

Bissu Enamel No. 168

Bissu Metallic Enamel No. 284

Bissu Nail Dryer

http://www.bissu .com / unas.html

Cervical Mucus Before Period Lots

Hi Girls

I did this look for the girls who go to school and do not let them wear much makeup, and then turned it into something more appealing look using a silver coffee This look is super versatile that can be used with different shades of lipstick and any option is great hope you like and then I leave the list of products used.

Bissu Compact Powder No. 1

Bissu Octet No. 1

retractable pencil in pitch black Bissu

Blush No. 5 Bissu

Gloss strawberry flavored Bissu

Bissu Lip No. 122

Gloss color No. 26 of Bissu

http://www.bissu.com/index.html

Actress With Dark Hair And Green Eyes

Placing an old tree Christmas Desserts & Sweets

In one of the moments I dedicate to explore jumping from one page to another I found this great tutorial for creating trees, belongs to a diorama still not finished but its author Paul Valenx (creator of fantastic models and dioramas) gives a very detailed explanation of how it is done and can undoubtedly be of much help ...

The basic idea is simple, a piece of clay suitable for the size chosen for the tree that we want to make the two ends of an extended three in number four who later formed the main branches and roots. Then let the clay dry completely once we dry with a punch vertical streaking roughly to give texture to what will be the bark of the trunk and branches, it is appropriate before it dries completely gently press the clay in the ground where then placed the tree, to fit perfectly to the substrate and actually simulate the roots emerge from the ground, then painted this piece with a dark and dry when you apply dry brush with a similar color as the bark of the tree, I usually use red-brown and gray to give some light to shine with silver, too We then wash with a dark brown or black ink, the log is finished, just need to wash with diluted glue and throw branches over rail for merging with elliquen makes foliage.

The cup is made with chunks of green lichen which hit multiple points of contact adhesive such as lichen is soft will not fit very well, if we harden it and at the same time is well established lavage with wood glue diluted 50% in water and let it dry, sprinkle with black primer spray for added strength and let it dry a while then paint the latex paint cup with a green base to allow it to dry and then apply the various shades of green leaves in areas with a dry brush acrylic shades of green and yellow.

Step by step:

1-wire and then coating a layer of putty, let's do an internal skeleton for the tree, because as we shall stop and large, this skeleton will give us strength and robustness, it is absolutely necessary this step if the tree is of normal size, about 10 or 15 cms, can be made entirely of modeling clay that can dry and subsequent coats of primer, paint and varnish is very robust and and high solidez.Hay to take into account that the final thickness quercus will depend on the thickness of the inner skeleton, and later cut the crust, so if we are to make the tree full of putty, and give this step a thickness to the trunk, branches and roots, slightly higher than seek, as in the carving is lowered slightly the diameter of these elements in the tree, and if you do as I do, the thickness of the skeleton of mastic should be just thick enough to give robustez.Haciendo first internal skeleton , with a little gauge wire, which bends easily, do a double structure as umbrella or antenna, and we're twisting the wire together to make it more robust, with putty as a species we elongated cylinder of similar size to praise you want to finally get the tree on both ends going to shape some extensions that are then in the upper branches, and roots at the bottom, I usually get 3 to 5 branches and three roots. Naturally, the tree will have more extensions, but now only going to make major branches (extensions), weight-supporting mainly foliage and roots that hold the sustrato.Os quercus should be something like

wire is seen perfectly in this case copper wire electrical conduction in the roots.

2-Now let's cover of clay throughout the tree, from roots to the tips of branches, previously covered over the entire tree of undiluted white glue, will give the coating a thickness slightly greater than that which will the final tree, because with him the next step which is carved, is lowered a bit the diameter of the tree, so we take into account in branches and roots, and working with clay, I do it because to me, I is much easier to carve the clay putty.

Let's take the tree trunk and we will press for the root against the place where you will place definitely diorama, we do this for the quercus perfectly suits the diorama base substrate and it appears that there has actually grown. It can be done directly with putty, but then we must bear in mind that besides giving and in this way the final thickness of the tree, we must still soft putty, and press it against the base substrate, ie the ground diorama.En of this case I will put quercus on a hill where there is a cave, because with the wet clay, pressing it into the top of the tree again colina.Cogemos and removes it from there, he spread with undiluted white tail part of the roots will be in contact with the substrate, and we also glue in place of the substrate where would the tree, and pressed again, then with the fingers, extend some roots to make it stick and is perfectly adapted to your site quercus .

3-We expect a few hours to dry clay something, just enough for us to be easy to carve with a punch across the surface, this is proved because by introducing the punch and make a mark, do not leave wet edges clay in this incisión.Como going to carve it, the technique consists of making a series of vertical cuts along the whole trunk, to reach areas of the branches and roots, these lines curving incision so we are going to continue the direction of the branch or root, we will never make right angles, only curves, so the trunk is vertical incisions, and going up or down until we're twisting result in more or less horizontal incisions, ok? These incisions lines, we do not do with continuity, we in stretches of one to 2 cms, need not be perfectly parallel but quite the opposite, not avoid deviations or bending, these will give greater reality to the cortex, which is what we are looking for, so yes, try not to cross many lines not to form a "X". No matter what cause some lines ugly cracks on the surface, it is more the deeper they are, the feeling of old age finally we present the quercus. Finally on the lines, remember that the separation between each other should not be more than about two millimeters, the quercus must be completely lined with uniformity across the surface. 4-now, and still semi-wet clay, we'll paint with a layer of dark brown or black primer to give a brush, never to spray, and do it with a thick brush, this serves to do two things now The first is that the edges of the cut lines will be distorted, so that will be "blunt, rounded, and the surface is now when it takes on the aspect of real bark, and the second part of the painting will be introduced deeply into the clay through the incisions, giving greater strength to quercus.Ahora if we can already let it dry completely set .. .

If you look, the bottom of the root so I spread it out a kind of edge out, it's good to do this so that the subject is extremely strong, then we will cover These "chips" with a paste of sand and glue diluted, and these extensions will be as new points of attachment of the tree. This part of the root is completed, we as a final touch, make a additional extensions, with new and independent blobs of clay or putty, which we are adding the substrate directly and simply to branch over the root, this process is completely independent of the element tree, I have done in the branch that crosses the entrance of the cave, and the dry clay volume shrinks, leaving those cracks perpendicular to the direction of the root, which can easily fill with more clay or putty.

5-branches at the top, we have the main branches and dry, if the tree is not of great size, we simply skip the step of the secondary branches siguiente.Nos is to the secondary branches, these we do as follows, we will take the same wire as before, I used copper wiring because I had on hand, and we're going to cut into pieces of about 7 to 9 cm long with the iron, then we are going to plunge vertically into the pot of glue, and immediately plunged it horizontally in a container full of grass rail rather dark tone, a small portion of the wire is no glue or lawn where it is seized, but no matter, let it dry well. Now with the hand drill we will be making holes in the sides of the main branches, we make with the vertical path on the branch that is most comfortable, and deepen least 0.5 to 1 cm in those holes we are introducing the end of wire / cable that we had before with the rail trim, previously we put a small drop of superglue at the end , and let it dry super-glue.Ahora going to paint with undiluted white glue the top of the main branches and the binding of the secondary branches, and sprinkle it over rail lawn, once dry we properly orient the secondary branches (they are easily wire / cable), to form a more or less uniform and slightly thick throughout the crown of Quercus, this will serve for the next step, placement

tree foliage

6-crown foliage, use them as raw material modeling liquid, there are several ways to call it, but I do so, this product is relatively cheap by where to buy it, I bought a box the size of the shoes and florists, I get about 15 to 18 euros the box. As recently purchased this lichen has a soft, rubbery texture, but after a while it dries and becomes more rigid. 'll Put us in cool, to fit perfectly to the upper structure of our árbol.Al place in the tree falls, but it peguemos fast drying glue, hence the need for secondary wire branches. We will be placing the lichen on the branches in this way, choose the parts of lichen from the ends, ie those parts that are thinner and attractive and found in the front ends of the twig lichen, that the cut patterns as they will be. the distance to the main body of the tree, from where all the branches, and the distance between a branch and next door, this is going to take a front portion of a twig of lichen that is long enough to its base rests on the star is formed by the output of all branches from the trunk, and also has a width such that if I can lean on a branch and in the hand, as e lesson of these branches requires a certain eye and experience, I recommend you go testing sticks of different size and length until you fully support and will not fall, the process seems to be complicated, but it is not too much due to the ease of lichen coupled. The bottom line is that out are the most colorful are the ends of twigs. After that twig lichen we will partially submerged in a container rather flat tail, spreads only ones that stand out more.

And

put them in place, this process is repeated for all the branches so that we cover the entire surface of the glass, then place them lichen twigs by the same process, but the courts unless length, so it's like making a second cup on the first, but smaller, and thus we give a form suitable to our taste, I usually put more than three lines of twigs of lichen on the tree. This step is essential to have a bit of view of aesthetics, but practice makes todo.Recomendaros that if any of the branches is especially difficult to put into place and fall, expect a few days to dry those of sides, thus and you can catch more firmly attach the twig problemática.Así is more or less ..

7-hardening treatments and painted the foliage, we know that the same liquid in a few days it dries and becomes more rigid, but we will try to preserve it while it paint, for this I use a green latex paint, this paint provides a protective rubbery lichen layer, preserving the elements like moisture and bumps, so there will be constantly bursting into pieces to crumble. After the green give another second layer of mixed green with brown, which gives me a dark green, sometimes I have to print with normal spray primer the whole cup, which is very likely también.Seguidamente proceed to the final painting, we do well with airbrush home, since the author has not yet has had to contrive as he could, and has used a sprayer that of glass cleaner, and sometimes any container that allows you to spray paint, as was a small pot of those who sold in pharmacies for the nose, that we all have in the drawer of the nightstand in the bedroom. These systems may clog easily, so we have to use the paint too thin, and have patience to free it, or buy real airbrush ... Let it dry and damages a generous layer of matte varnish spray, so that the cup is finished, I'm thinking of introducing a number of vines in the largest trees with the simple smear method sewing threads with glue and then grass, but I'm still experiencing, the method I developed myself, but a friend (Aethelmaere), our forum, "The Ring of Clay" 8-now proceed to paint the trunk , and sprayed with paint in the cup many areas have been green, paint it all over again with dark brown or black. Once dry, we will give just a hint of brown, red rather I usually use a black wash to the areas where we have not gone through the brown never hurts, and finally a dry brush Pasadita to various shades of brown, gray and other colors as desired, for finish the job properly , soil to dry brush a layer of bronze and silver, by area, to highlight the brilliance that have rough bark to sunlight.

9-Sometimes, if I give the quercus an aspect of "venerable" and ancient, some climbing plant floor to the trunk and I make the cuts deeper in the cortex, and even some agujero.Espero to serve you this long tutorial, the process had is long, because I wanted to mention every single detail, but once you learn it all quite rápido.El final result will look something like this ....